Kokani Muslims have inhabited the Konkan belt of Maharashtra for centuries and are one of the oldest Muslim communities of India. The history of this community in India dates back to 7th century when Arab settlers migrated to the western coast of the country as the ancient port of Chaul, near the village of Revdanda (near Alibaug) used to be an important trading port. Over centuries, many of the Arab immigrants settled down with local partners in the districts of Mumbai, Thane, Palghar, Raigad, Ratnagiri and Sindhudurg. Thus, the language spoken in the community is also a dialect of Marathi known as ‘Kokani’ and is different from Goa’s Konkani language. Since the community’s creation took place through a fascinating unification of very diverse cultures, its cuisine is also a beautiful melange of the amalgamating communities’ culinary styles — Arab, African and Maharashtrian. The cuisines lend their influence in terms of ingredients, recipe techniques and the occasions of preparation. The impact of local Maharashtrian cuisine and the produce of the coasts is visible in terms of ingredients that’s staple to the community — rice, seafood and coconut. The Arab and to some extent African influence is notable in the specialty ingredients and techniques used for these delicacies are reflective of dishes in existence today in those parts of the world. Even the use of dry fruits and saffron dates back to the Arab traders while the incorporation of eggs in some dishes showcase the coming together of Maharashtrian and Arab influences. For instance, the Middle Eastern culinary influence can also be seen in Saravle — a traditional pasta that entails the use of eggs and meat. Saravle is cooked both ways— as a savoury dish with mutton or chicken and as a sweet laden with eggs.
GHAVNE:
The difference in the Maharashtrian saat kaapi (seven layered) ghavan and Kokani Muslim ghavne is the incorporation of egg in the latter recipe — a practice said to be inspired from Arab style pancake chebab.
The remaining ingredients showcase the Maharashtrian influence with rice and coconut being key ingredients.
Ingredients
1 cup thick rice paste
1 cup thick coconut milk
1 egg
1 cup jaggery, grated
¼ teaspoon green cardamom powder
3-4 tbsp ghee
½ cup mixed dry fruits and poppy seeds
Saffron (optional)
METHOD
Mix all ingredients except ghee, dry fruits and khuskhus to make the batter. Ensure that the jaggery dissolves completely and the batter has no lumps. Heat a frying pan and lace it with about a tablespoon of ghee.
Spread about three tablespoons of the batter to cover the base of the pan. Cook on medium heat for few minutes until it is lightly golden.
Sprinkle about 1-2 teaspoons of dry fruits and khuskhus mix to the pancake. Lift one end of the pancake and fold it over the other to get a perfect crescent shape.
Drizzle about 1-2 teaspoons of ghee and add the same quantity of batter to the empty half of the pan.
Ensure that the batter merges with the fold of the pancake in the pan. Repeat the process till you have a pancake with a minimum of seven layers.
MASACHA SAALNA:
While seafood dominates the cuisine, mutton is also the preferred meat, prepared on special occasions. The meat is usually made in a tangy, tomato-based gravy or saalna that is best paired with saandan or traditional steamed rice cake.
Ingredients
750 gm mutton on bone
3 tbsp oil
3 onions, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
2-3 green cardamom pods
4-5 black peppercorns
3-4 tomatoes, pureed
3 tbsp roasted coconut paste
1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
2 tsp coriander powder
3 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp cumin seeds powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp garam masala powder
2½ cups water
Salt to taste
Fresh green coriander for garnishing
METHOD
Heat oil and add onions and fry them till they are golden brown. Remove and keep aside.
Add the whole spices in the same pot and fry for 30 seconds. Add all the dry spice powders and salt and fry.
Add ginger-garlic paste and the fried onions back to the pot and mix well. Combine tomato puree and coconut paste and sauté till oil appears on the sides. Add the mutton along with the water and mix well. Simmer for 30-40 minutes or until the meat is tender.
