Nestled in the eastern Himalayas, shrouded by snow, and minus temperatures, lies the famed Silk Route. Towering, stark snow-clad mountains and untouched beauty, army posts guard this area staunchly. It has the highest motorable road thanks to the Border Road Organisation or BRO that led us to our destination, the illusive Nathu La Pass. Nathu or “listening ears” and La or pass in Tibetan, is at 4,310 metres or 14,140 feet, 56 km from Gangtok. Walking on the historical Silk Route, or in the footsteps of the Dalai Lama when he came to India from Tibet, it’s hard to imagine the journey back then or the mules carrying silk, gold and yak wool in these torturous environs.
The most ardurous terrain and landslide-prone areas of Sikkim... we were excited and apprehensive after hearing that just last month a convoy of many cars was stuck due to a landslide for over eight hours — the Army came to the rescue, offering warmth and food. We ourselves were in awe of the Army’s resolve, living in the most extreme weather, lives spent protecting our borders, even though we barely give a thought to their contributions. We also were privy to their unmistakable large heartedness. An inspiration we must all learn from.
Our drive from Gangtok, towards the winding, twisty and curvy roads began with basic preparations. Acclimatising to the lack of oxygen and height (stay a few days before you embark), and minus temperature. Most important — getting permits, as the area is entirely under army control. Permits are issued on the day of travel, dependant on the unforgiving weather. We heard Nathu La had been closed for over a month due to extreme weather. And were unsure till that April morning of travel. We were lucky! The sun shone brightly and we had the smiling Norbu as our driver, getting us to the first checkpost under the strict but credible vigil of the army. A convoy of 514 cars has been given an OK — it’s a wait, so be prepared. We bought popcorn and chocolates, which helps in dizzying highs. On a clear day, one can see Chinese soldiers, though ours saw snow, snow and more snow pelting furiously. A delightful frozen wonderland, nonetheless.
You can buy yak wool on the way to Nathu La
Stop by at a memorial constructed in honour of the Indian soldiers who lost their lives in the Nathula Skirmish. Get to Baba Harbhajan Singh Shrine considered a wish-fulfilling temple nearby.
The Namgyal Institute of Tibetology’s monastery and prayer wheels
The winding roads, gravity-defying bridges, starkness of the mountains amidst clouds startles one. We passed Sherathang, known for its border trade market. Kupup, here boasts the second highest golf course in the world. Surreal as it may sound, we stopped at Thegu, the highest altitude ATM in the world too. The roads that start green, passing forgotten villages, army camps turned white, grey and snowfilled.
We halted for chai at a village, where you can buy woollens, yak wool (they say!). The locals are warm, even invite you into the wooden shacks for warmth and ply you with hot chai and chilli. Hire a pair of gum boots for the snow later, please! The air is fresh, getting colder, and even a hot chai did not warm the cockles of our excited hearts.
Tsomgo Lake
Proceed we must, as there is a time window for the army. But first, we stopped at the most gorgeous Tsomgo Lake (called Changu too). It continued snowing, as the lucid lake turned grey. On the last checkpost, we waited for our car with a permit, which was illusive. Then, thanks to the magnanimity of the army officer Singh, we were able to head quickly towards the furiously falling snow at Nathu La. A stone arched gateway leading to the border or what is considered “no mans land.” We climbed to the lookout point, and a lack of oxygen, snow, our heaving chests could only take so much… a few quick pictures later, even as others posed in the biting cold, before the army personnel announced the pass was to shut due to weather. In a scurry, we walked frozen extremities, across slippery ice, where many fell, painfully! Looking at the vantage point that is a part of Indian history, marvelling at the resolute and strong Army, we took back stark beauty. Wish we could have stayed longer!
Then voila, like the universe conspired, the sun shone, and the sight of a lake mirroring towering snow-capped peaks was mindblowing, making us stop in our tracks. Untouched and pristine. We then went on the ropeway to see a vista of snow falling everywhere! One thing though, bathrooms in the villages are a nightmare, so keep that in mind.
With clear skies and magnolia trees dotting our route, the snow had made us hungry. Dal, greens and dalle (a local chilli sauce) to eat — or noodles — delicious, it was a memory no selfie can capture, and we were glad to see Nathu La open… as we left with a song in our hearts for these dedicated army officers.
