'RUSS' hour for footie

Ask any football fan what it means to have the coveted FAN ID — equivalent to a visa-free entry into Russia, and their stadium of choice, and their eyes light up with euphoria. That ID, in itself, is a first! A great innovation for the FIFA World Cup 2018 in Russia! Closer home, for avid fans who will watch the games from their living rooms, the timings of the FIFA World Cup 2018 will, for the first time, result in fewer bleary eyes as the matches suit the Indian subcontinent time beautifully — 5.30 pm, 9.30 pm and 12.30 pm.  Brimming with enthusiasm and excitement, the Indian footie fan has arrived for the WC. Yes, football, for those who follow the game, is a religion. Where else can you find people from different countries and beliefs shedding tears over a missed goal, a ruthless tackle or the sweet bounce of the ball as it hits the back of the net? It brings the world together under one universal spell, in our divisive world, a lesson to emulate. 

The beautiful game will have its most anticipated moment, and Indians are on a ride of a lifetime when the biggest football extravaganza unfolds on June 14 to July 15, 2018 with 64 matches in 11 cities. The upbeat reggaeton  track Live it up by Nicky Jam, Will Smith and Albanian singer Era Istrefi will ring out loud, as the mascot, a wolf named Zabivaka, which means ‘the one who scores’ in Russian, ambles along.  Since the next World Cup (four years away) is in Qatar, most prefer to finish their bucket list sporting event in Russia. Travel portals, agents and the like are seeing a huge rise, which has gone up more than 50 per cent. 
Manmeet Alhuwalia, marketing head, Expedia India says, “With time, Indians have grown to enjoy and travel for sporting activates apart from cricket. With the FIFA World Cup just around the corner, we have seen a tremendous increase in queries and bookings for Russia. The Under 17-FIFA World Cup in India added fuel to this craze of watching live football. We saw the rise in queries go up by 22-25 per cent over the past six months, and in the past month the bookings have gone up by 35 per cent. There are heavy bookings for destinations like Samara, Sochi, St Petersburg and Moscow as these cities will host group series, quarter finals, semis and final.”

 

All will be forgotten, and kick-offs will dictate life. Countries and their stars, Ronaldo and Portugal, Messi and Argentina, Eden Hazard and Belgium, James Rodrigues and Colombia, Andres Iniesta and Spain, Toni Krooz and Germany, the galaxy of talent will descend on Russia. The large contingent of Indians are busy awaiting FAN ID, tickets in hand, unfettered in their hope to be part of the footie mecca — from watching the talent of Lionel Messi and Ronaldo who will play in their last World Cup… to rooting for their chosen teams. Even those footie fans who swear allegiance to clubs, more than country, are ready, like Manoj Menon, a die-hard Liverpool fan, who is rooting for Argentina. “There is huge Argentina support in Kerala, has been for years.” Troupes from Goa, Kerala and Kolkata are set for footie land and so are many from Delhi, Chennai, Mumbai and Bengaluru. Russia, former Soviet Union, where the Iron Curtain kept the country under a shroud of darkness, will roll out a red carpet, with open arms!  Matches across 11 cities and 12 stadiums. There are fan fests, and fan parks for the ticketless too, with drink, grub and footie paraphernalia. Those who want to watch matches with other fans, can watch the action unfurl on screen, as tickets are expensive and second and third sales are even higher. Different cities also have pubs and taverns dedicated to different teams.

Varsha and Nivriti.

Incidentally, June 14 marks the end of Ramzan as well, and Russia’s anti-racism chief Alexei Smertin, it was reported, said that there will be halal food and places to pray too. The former Chelsea and Russian footballer stressed that the FAN ID system will help prevent potential racist incidents. Security and racist concerns are huge as Russia is employing drones around its stadiums for video surveillance of unruly fans, and there are worries about ISIS, which will see Russian security at its highest. For the FAN ID peeps, trains to and fro from cities are free of cost, too! Author and IIM Ahmedabad visiting faculty, Apurv Nagpal is a World Cup veteran, having gone to five World Cups. Brazil, South Africa, Italy… and this time, it’s Russia all the way, with his family too. The football enthusiast along with his wife Ritu, children Anvam (18) and Anvika (14), his parents Subhash (79) and Rita (72), and his brother’s family, are all set to attend the mega event — with an itinerary that would make any fan envious. 

ST Petersburg

“My family is watching nine matches, and my brother, five… FIFA is more like a celebration, that is why we usually go for the group stages, and are back when it starts heating up,” says Apurv, who will be watching two rounds of 16 games, and a quarterfinal. The die-hard football fan prefers to be back home when things get real and edgy. “The fun is in the group stages when people from so many different countries congregate. People see Indians, and they know we don’t have a team in the reckoning, and are stunned. It is awesome, people from Africa, Latin America, European countries are so fantastic to be with, and such good fun!” he adds.

The Nagpals will explore Moscow, St Petersberg, Saransk, Sochi and Nzihny, “We are also going to a resort town, Zavidovo, on the outskirts of Moscow. We hope to scuba dive at Sochi as well,” he says.  Sam Arjun, an Emergency Med Evac Specialist for the FIFA games 2018, is based in Sochi, and he stresses, “If you enter Russia, don’t visit just Moscow, do St Petersburg, Volgograd, Rostov on Don, Sochi, etc.  These cities hold a rich history. Volgograd is on the banks of the River Volga, and it is the place where the Stalingrad battle took place, a victory in WW2 which saved many nations. The Moscow metro too is a Soviet miracle!” Other proud FAN ID holders are Bengalurean Varsha N., business development head and a fitness buff, her husband Neel Lohith, and friends, set for Russia on July 1. The group will watch two games, one round of 16, and a quarterfinal — with St Petersberg, 

Moscow and Kazan on their trail.“The FAN ID was easy, it requires a valid ticket, and everything can be done online. We could not get tickets on the FIFA site, so we got them through a sports travel website, and it was expensive! We are staying at airbnbs in two cities as it’s so much more affordable,” pipes Varsha. 
Russel Dias, a businessman from Panjim, is off to Moscow and Kalingrad, for the England-Belgium match, and another in the knockout stages.  Excited, yes, Dias says, “We have the hospitality tickets, which include pick-up, drop, drinks at the stadium, costing Rs 60,000. We will get there and plan other things as well,”

The fantastic fans

Apurv and his wife lived in Russia from 1997-99, and dismiss security concerns, saying. “The impression that India and other countries have is totally negative, the truth is so different. The supermarket and metro stations etc., are way superior to what you find even in Europe and the US. The trains run on time, and the Russian metro system is way better, the stations are so ornate, you can hold a ball inside! Russia has gone out of the way to roll out the red carpet, for example the FAN ID, you don’t need a visa, I mean how brilliant is that? No other country has had that idea! And who better to do security than Russia? It will be the most secure World Cup. Also racism in Russia I feel is less than in some other countries and I have been to about 60 countries. People are lovely and respect Indians. From Communist times, their one friend was Indian. The image of Russia — that it is cold and bleak, with grumpy-frowny people — it’s not at all like that.”

Sam agrees, “The country is very safe. If you have any problems with travelling, the government has posted city volunteers throughout dressed in blue t-shirts, ready to help. One should look for Russian Stalovaya or Russian Kulinariya — Russian canteens which are very common, cheap and serve good food too.” A tip for the hungry horses with not too deep pockets.

A party waiting to begin

Russia and India have always been allies, since the days of Jawarharlal Nehru. And be it Hindi songs, or Raj Kapoor fans, or discos playing Hindi dingchak numbers, there’s Indian sentiment still alive in “Roos”. Sam Arjun adds, “Russians have a very rich culture influenced by Soviet glory. One must visit the central markets to understand the specialities of the city. The so called Banya (saunas) is a life-time experience.” Indians are going to be  surprised by this next bit of trivia. According to Apurv, the cult song in Russian discotheques is Mithun Chakravarty’s Jimmy Jimmy! “You might hear this song as it plays in many nightclubs! Known for its drinking and partying, it will be a blast.” Nagpal recommends the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg, which is stunning and in Moscow, he adds, “The Kremlin is magical, covered with towers and turrets. Visit the twin cities of Vladimir-Suzdal, a drive from Moscow, they are gorgeous. And yes, I would definitely recommend a river cruise. The most important — do a PROPER Russian sauna experience — it takes four hours!” With Stolichnaya flowing, and prices for all pockets, yes the WC will see prices soar, but that’s not stopping die-hard fans. Varsha is looking forward to seeing Lake Baikal, she adds. “From Beluga caviar, Stroganoff, Pastila, Stolichnaya and Beluga vodka, ballet at Bolshoi or Mariinsky, the White Nights Festival at St Petersburg, Scarlet Sails, the Moscow underground (its Park Pobedy Station is the third deepest metro station in the world), the Museum of Cosmonautics in Moscow, the temple of religion at Kazan, and so much more,” every footie fan’s travel itinerary is brimming over! But football is KEY… and being one big family of fervent fans. Nothing can beat that.

— Inputs by Ruth Prarthana and Cathline Chen

A RUSSIAN ‘route’lette

MOSCOW
If you want to explore the culture of Moscovites, along the Moskva River bank is Gorky Park, try street food, take your kids for activities, join locals for a football game or a dancing class, or just rent a bike and explore. Gorky Park and Muzeon Park are excellent to watch matches outdoors. You can follow the news https://park-gorkogo.com/en/events.

ST Petersburg
If you want to try Russian vodka like we do, head to the Russian Vodka Museum at Number 4 Konnogvardeysky Boulevard in St. Petersburg. For less than $10, take a guided tour and taste vodka. Try and visit between June 11 to July 2, as it’s the White Nights (Beliye Nochi) period, where the sun doesn’t descend below the horizon. Best time to watch the drawbridges opening.

ST Petersburg

Samara
Samara is a must for any WWII history buff, as the city was chosen as an alternative capital in case Moscow was invaded by Germans. The Stalin Bunker is here.

Safety tip: In Russia, you are required to have an original copy of the at all times, regardless of foreigner or local. It is a part of security procedures. Upon arrival, you will fill a small immigration sheet  and hand it over when leaving the country. Exchange money into local currency as not all places take credit cards. Avoid exchanging at airports, train stations or streets. They take a standard commission. 

Rostov on Don
Rostov on Don has many picturesque Russian Orthodox churches. There is a dress code for women to cover their head with a scarf, and wear skirts (below the knees). Many churches provide scarves or keep a scarf handy, and do respect local customs. 

Ekaterinburg
Try to plan a half-day trip outside the city, visit fascinating natural formations in the Ural Mountains, the most ancient mountain range in the world. You can visit Petrogrom rocks or the Stone tents, or a sacrifice place for the people of the early Iron and Middle Ages — Chertovo gorodishche (Devil’s Settlement). Travelling in trains is considered quite safe in Russia but beware of petty thefts.

Volgograd

Volgograd has its own Metrotram. This high-speed tram is fourth place on a Forbes list of the most interesting tram routes in the world. Most Russian cities have a walking street at the city centre, where you can buy souvenirs, visit restaurants and cafes, enjoy street entertainment, fastfood or go for a stroll. In Volgograd, the main walking street is the Alley of the Heroes. 

Volgograd

Olga Alexandrova is a communications professional, a proud Russian and Moscovite, with a passion for travelling, and a love for Indian culture and food. She gives us the inside track on Russia

Nizhny-novgorod
This Unesco city is famous for its wooden masters, so get your Russian dolls (Matreshka), traditional toys, cutlery and other souvenirs here.

Safety: Expect the Russian police to be especially alert during the World Cup. If authorities ask for your ID, stay calm as such checks are normal, show them your FAN ID. To avoid crooks always ask for their identification first before handing documents. 

Kazan
On a budget: Tatar food is different from the rest of the country and really delicious. If you want to try local dishes without spending too much, head to one of the chain stores Bakhetle. Don’t miss the Tatar desserts. 

Tip: You will have to leave your vuvuzelas at home as they are not allowed in the stadiums during the World Cup. Thankfully!

Sochi
Pack your swimsuit as Sochi is located on the Black Sea. The beaches are pebbled, not sandy. Considered more hygienic, try a free pebble massage here. A recent host to the Olympics, Sochi is booming with outdoor activities on water and land: trekking, horse riding, karting to rock climbing, diving to windsurfing, etc. 

 

Saransk
Sightseeing: You don’t want to miss Mordovskoe Podvorye, an open-air museum telling stories of the Mordvins (people of the region). This ethnographic museum complex opened in 2012, and provides an interactive experience into the culture and pre-Christian period of the pagan religious beliefs in Russia. 

 

Food tip: Russians love their meat, if vegetarian, be prepared that few dishes will be vegetarian. Specify you don’t eat eggs, as Russian vegetarians do!

Kaliningrad
Don’t miss the Museum of the World Ocean, where there are several unique vessels for research, and sea explorations, the Soviet Submarine B-413 and aquariums with rare fishes.

 

Named after the first president of Russia, do tipple at Yeltsin Bar, it is a popular place to hang out. It has an excellent selection of craft beers on tap and bottled craft beers from around the world. It is also a great place to make new friends during a friendly game of table football! 

— As told to Suruchi Kapur-Gomes