Jihadi chic on the runway

A militant style A/W 2015 collection by fashion label Maharishi has designers and stylists question and criticise its intent and fashion sense

Male models in black hooded outfits, umbrellas that resembled weapons, balaclava headgear that left only the eyes exposed. The ‘utility chic’ collection of fashion label Maharishi established by Hardy Blechman is known for specialising in military fashion. The brand’s autumn/winter 2015 collection comprised camouflage prints and combat trousers. But the timing of the event is highly questionable as several politicians and world leaders had gathered in Paris to remember the people who had been killed in the Charlie Hebdo shootings and kosher mart attack.

For designer Namrata Joshipura, there is nothing aesthetic or chic about looking like a jihadi. She says, “There is no right way to portray such sensitive topics, as simple as that. Presenting such a collection is nothing but being politically incorrect and inappropriate in all senses. People are fighting for freedom of speech and expression but that does not imply you can misuse it and present something so highly unfashionable as this. It certainly does not make for a fashion or a design statement; forget about the aesthetic value of the collection.”

She adds, “You can’t do photoshoot in a bus or have models dressed as terrorists walking down the ramp and claim to be spreading awareness about social causes. Fashion designs are like artworks and open to all sorts of interpretations. As a designer, you have to be aware that there could be negative connotations to your work. You have to be slightly more socially responsible while presenting such a fashion line. Even if your intent is right, you run the risk of being misinterpreted.”

It is completely tragic, saddening and distasteful, when people who have no clue about the repercussions of what they are doing exploit fashion, feels fashion stylist Rishi Raj. He says, “For example, the gang rape incident turned into a fashion editorial and some fashion designers even dedicated their collections towards the cause. There was a make-up artist who claimed to have done the fastest airbrush make-up and dedicated her award to the brave heart Nirbhaya. What is the connect between the two It is completely distasteful to have such things happening around us every now and then. Unfortunately, the junta, which is being educated about fashion and aesthetics is not evolved enough and end up being affected by such wrong portrayals. It starts at a shallow point, where people want to dress up like a terrorist or a rapist thinking that it is cool and trendy to emulate what is being showcased on runways.

Who knows tomorrow you are merely dressing up like a terrorist and gradually you might start having thoughts like one Fashion is becoming way too big for its own shoes and too disorganised and a lot of wrong information is being delved out in the name of fashion. Being creative means it involves a creation of which you can be proud of and something that can be endorsed in a harmless way. Runaway is not really the right platform for social activism. Fashion is very convoluted in the sense that it is nothing but appearance based, frivolous line of things and it will continue to remain that. If you want to really do some social work, then I recommend take out a certain sum from your profits and give to the workers.

If you are trying to ride on something, which is trending currently then it is completely wrong to do so and nothing but a cheap publicity gimmick. I hope this was mere bad luck and not a strategic move to come out with a collection that boasts of camo prints, and military prints around this time. It is really unnerving to see even autistic children walking hand-in-hand with socialites on the ramp.”

He questions further, “How is it fashionable to look like a terrorist You can wear animal print or camo prints but why cover your face, carry a toy gun or pretend to be holding a weapon In that case, he/she is channelling not just a particular outfit but also a personality or a character. I could still wear a yellow pant and emulate Govinda but why look like a terrorist ”

Designer Aneeth Arora, however, believes that “inspiration is very subjective and personal. One should not merely criticise somebody’s hard work just because it does not appeal enough to you. The intent and the philosophy behind a collection have to be clearly understood before being judgmental.”

Fashion designer Rahul Mishra is flummoxed by the imagery that one constantly attaches to terrorists. He puts forth, “Do terrorists or rapists have any particular kind of uniform. Why stereotype them with a particular kind of imagery American Lashkar-e-Taiba operative David Coleman Headley, who had done the reconnaissance for 26/11 attack never looked like a terrorist.”

Lots of designers try to harp on the current social untoward situations to create hype around them, believes Rahul. He adds, “A fashion show is certainly an expression of what a designer feels will be trending in the coming seasons and is a good showcase of art but how can such a commercial activity like a fashion show talk about social awareness. They do not have narratives or dialogues, unlike films, so they hardly communicate any message to the viewers. How many people are getting employed by your fashion show, how beautifully crafted they are, how green are they and how satisfied you customer is by your outfits are broader things that should be talked about rather than trying to bring about a social change. When you go to a cinema hall to watch a movie, you go with a certain plot or an idea in your mind and you come out feeling more sensitive about the issues something that a fashion show never does to you.

You can surely create theatrical drama using fashion and there could be beautiful hidden messages behind your clothes that can be perceived in multiple ways but it doesn’t has the potential of delivering a message that films, books or music might have. You have to be attentive but do not try to glamorise something as heinous as terrorism or rape. Live is beautiful, and give attention to positive aspects of life such as poetry or love rather than the negative issues.”