The Grape Gatsby

From a family of wine makers comes this enologist who is excited about India’s wine culture

With a passion for traditional winemaking techniques, Italy’s famous wine maestro Lucio Matricardi spills the beans on how he orchestrates the grapes and makes them perform to his specifications in the barrel and the bottle.

1) When and how was your first tryst with wines. Tell us a little bit your experience and knowledge...

I started in 1995 at a winery in Amilya Romagna region. I come from a farming background and my family owned a vineyard, so I’ve always had a passion for wines. Moreover, wine is a part of our culture and everyday life in Italy. I learned the art of winemaking in Bologna (University of Agricultural Science) and in California (department of viticulture and enology).

I always make sure that the structure of the wine is powerful with a lot of tannins and flavours, thus ensuring that the wines last even two years in barrels, and a couple more years inside the bottle, as I have researched on the toasting techniques on colour and ellagitannins of oakwood in barrel making, so that the barrels last longer.

I’ve completed a PhD from the UC Davies and teach and consult at various universities, including the University of Milan, as an enologist.

2) What brings you to India

I’m a wine consultant and wine maker with Big Banyan and I have also worked as a winemaker in charge of wine production at one of the biggest co-operative wineries in Trentino.

As chief winemaker, I ensure that each process is meticulously followed. I work as a team; and as I am the captain of the team, it’s important that I am present during every crucial period of winemaking.

3) The growing wine culture in India, any comment

I have noticed that though some of the young mostly drink wine as a status symbol, many know how to appreciate a wine and this is definitely an attribute of culture. As a winemaker, we help wine enthusiasts discover the beauty of learning the passion and of realising that the people, soil and the climate can be discovered inside every bottle.

The wine culture in India is on the rise and it will only see a steady increase. The existing wine culture is very exciting and I’m training professionals and wine lovers here on my frequent visits. 4) Any dos and don’ts or tips on storing wine

My advice would be that one should have a right approach towards wine making and that is honest hardwork. All the legends in Italy, France and other European countries follow this route. There are no short cuts in winemaking, follow the right methods and the regulations that are already in place in Europe and which have been validated.

You don’t need rocket science to preserve wines. To protect wines, you need cooler and dry temperature that is away from any type of heat.