Batik boom

Traditional batiks are re-painting the fashion canvas with contemporary styles and outlines

The print train of the fashion world appears to be unstoppable these days. From Valentino, Burberry Prorsum and Diane von Furstenberg to Stella McCartney, Edward Hutabarat and more, design gurus have been frequently showcasing print-based prêt collections on national and international runways. Although their lines have little to do with each other in terms of inspirations and design sensibilities, they do have one thing in common: batiks. From wacky to homey, idiosyncratic to fiery florals, dazzling geometrics to folk-inspired, the batik print revolution underpins one of the biggest new statements in fashion at the moment.

“Batik is both an art and a craft. And its growing popularity in the West as a wonderfully creative medium reinforces the fashion world’s fascination with the East,” avers designer Rashmi Srivastava of Banka Silk. “The art of beautifying cloth using wax and dye has been practised for centuries especially in Indonesian regions where some of the finest batik cloths in the world are still made. The word batik originates from the Javanese tik which means ‘to dot’. A batik pattern is achieved when selected areas of the cloth are blocked out by brushing or drawing hot wax and then dyed. The parts covered in wax resist the dye and retain the original colour. This process of waxing and dyeing can be repeated to create more elaborate and colourful designs. After the final dyeing, the wax is removed and the cloth is ready for wearing or showing,” she explains.

Pointing out its evolution into modern digital versions, designer Sunieta Narayana says, “Inspired by this traditional eastern technique, a Belgian printer developed the machine-made wax-print fabric by applying resin to cotton cloth. But this developed a crackling effect — a series of small lines, dots and imperfections where the resin cracked and dye seeped through — that didn’t appeal to Indonesian batik purists. In need of a market for the new textiles, the Dutch turned to West Africa where people actually appreciated these imperfections. West African tastes then shaped the evolving designs.”

According to designer Lalit Dalmia, there are no set rules to wearing the trend. He elaborates, “You can explore the traditional batik, reworked in various clashes and combinations via an assortment of zingy, artificial colours inspired by a make-up palette and pastels all pared back with nudes and blush hues. Also, this technique has an oriental flavour, so you can reload your wardrobe with kimono jackets, pyjama trousers, fringed sashes, gowns and wrap dresses in various digital batik patterns.”

About batik-friendly fabrics, Rashmi informs, “For summers, go for soft cottons, voiles, cambric or poplins. These days, viscose is also a big trend along with the gauze and loosely woven fabrics. You can mix and match batik patterns with different silhouettes as well. Go for combinations such as a high-low crop top with high-waisted pants, flared batik print trousers with a solid jersey vest and a contrasting scarf, or a batik printed fringed cape with a plain top and trousers in white, red, fuschia, aquamarine, etc. Accessorise with beaded, brass or colourful stone-embedded jewellery to complete the look. Pearls and wooden accessories will also go really well with batik patterns.”