Intrigue, rathyatra & a murder mystery: Meet the Gajapatis of Paralakhemundi

This is a story about Paralakhemundi, an ancient zamindari and town in the Gajapati district of Odisha. It was on August 21, 2016, that Odisha woke up to the announcement of a major tragedy from the Intach (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage)-governed historical Paralakhemundi Palace. Once home to the first Prime Minister of Odisha, the historical Gajapati Palace at Paralakhemundi, located 284 km from Bhubaneswar, became the centre of a scandal.

The bodies of the former manager of the Paralakhemundi Palace (or Gajapati Palace), Ananga Manjari Patra, her sister Bijayalaxmi Patra and brother Sanjaya Patra, were discovered dead at their house, located 500 metres from the palace. They were unmarried siblings aged between 35 and 54 years, and are said to have committed suicide while another sibling is battling for his life.

Matters probably came to head when 73-year-old Gopinath Gajapati — the grandson of the late Maharaja Krushna Chandra Gajapati Narayan Deo — made Ananga the manager of the palace, thus raising her to a position of influence in the palace. This was a subject that was frequently discussed in the town. However, when Gopinath fell ill, it appeared that he was under “house arrest” and was not being allowed visitors. These unpleasant rumours led the district administration to step in and shift the ailing Gopinath Gajapati to a Chennai hospital, under the care of his daughter Kalyani, a spinster based in Chennai.  

Gopinath is the present head of the royal family, but has a brother, Sarbajgan Jagannath Narayana Deo. Unfortunately, the two brothers do not see eye to eye and are involved in a legal dispute over the royal properties valued at Rs 500 crores. Kalyani is known to have earlier mentioned the mismanagement of the royal property by Ananga and her younger brother Sanjaya, Gopinath’s personal assistant. To make matters even more morbid, we must add that Gopinath was married to Rani Purna Devi, the princess of Dharampur in 1967. It is obvious that Gopinath’s son, Digvijay, was unhappy with the scenario and had committed suicide a year before.

It is time now for a bit of history and a move on to more pleasant subjects. It was during the 15th century, that Kolahomee, one of the sons of Gajapati Kapilendra Dev, came to this part of Odisha and founded the royal family of Paralakhemundi. The district is, however, not named after the founder, but instead after Maharaja Sri Krushna Chandra Gajapati Narayan Dev, the rajasahib of Paralakhemundi estate, who was honoured as the first Prime Minister of the state of Odisha after it was created on April 1, 1936. Earlier part of the Ganjam district, the Gajapati district came into being and was named as recently as from October 2, 1992.

Considered an architect of modern Odisha and the first premier of the state, Maharaja Krushna Chandra Gajapati Narayan Rao is considered responsible for much of Paralakhemundi’s present-day existence. He is a direct descendant of the historic dynasty of the Eastern Ganga Gajapati kings that ruled Odisha for more than seven centuries.

The Gajapati Palace is said to have been built to enhance the beauty of the state. The site and concept of the building was finalised on May 20, 1835. Of historical importance is that the germ of the idea of a separate statehood was created within the Gajapati Palace precincts. The palace is known for its unique architectural design among the other world heritage sites. Designed by British architect Robert Fellows Chisholm, the design and construction of this royal structure is influenced by the Indo-Saracenic style combined with Byzantine and European architectural features.

This palace is a three-storey structure that has a secret hall and a passageway that is linked to the Maharaja’s chambers. The palace also includes an underground floor connecting it with the main palace of the Maharaja. It is believed this secret passage was used by the royal family to hide during attacks from enemies.

The Singhadwar or the main gate has a decorative iron gate that stands between two tall minarets, locally referred to as gombujas. Reclining statues of lions on two raised platforms on each side are there to welcome you. A large mounted metal bell is also situated at the main entrance, to be struck manually every hour by a heavy wooden mallet — no doubt created both for those in the palace as well as for the public.

The gilt decorated walls and intricate wooden trelliswork at the durbar hall is the main attraction of the palace. The durbar hall is located in the middle of the palace and on either side are the Raja Mahal and Rani Mahal — the two main wings of the palace. The construction is so perfectly symmetrical, if measured, the two wings are like mirror images of each other in every way.

Located on the banks of the Mahendratanaya river, 237 km from Bhubaneswar, the picturesque Gajapati Palace of Paralakhemundi has been mentioned as “a straggling town, in plan much like the letter ‘L’ scattered around the foot of the well wooded hill which is the distinctive feature of the place. The horizontal portion of the ‘L’ faces south, and at the corner where the ‘L’ and the vertical portion join, is situated the palace, a most picturesque group of buildings”. These words were perhaps said by the designer of the Gajapati palace, Chisholm.

The Rath Yatra is celebrated at Paralakhemundi with great gusto. The town celebrates almost all festivities all round the year, with the Jagannath Ratha Yatra being the most revered one. The Jagannath Rath Yatra of Paralakhemundi is second only to the famous Puri festival. The Rath Yatra was always been patronised by all the rulers of Gajapati. The three idols of Jagannath, Balbhadra and Subhadra are quite huge in size. In the initial years the Rath festival was known to follow the traditions of Puri with three separate Raths. This was reduced to only one Rath for a few years.

However, I am happy to say that since 2012 the concept of three is back again and the three idols can enjoy the festivities for nine days in their own Raths. This year, despite floods and other problems, believers thronged the Jagannath temple everyday and joined in the bhajan, evening aarati and other ceremonial rituals.

The writer is an author, a professional communicator and an intrepid traveller