Weaving livelihood

Amid a whirlwind of ‘Make in India’ campaign the fashion circuit is evaluating the potential the rich Indian weaves. While many designers are bringing in a mix of old and new designs and textures to strike a balance between the avant-garde and the traditional, NGOs like Shrujan have been silently working for past 47 years in reviving the handloom techniques of Kutchi weaves.

Started in 1969 by Chanda K Shroff, Shrujan Trust, a Bhuj based not for profit organisation, helps empowering women in the Kutch region. Ami Shroff, daughter of Chanda K Shroff and director, Shrujan Trust, says, “This age old art form has stayed with the artisans from Kutch for generations but Shrujan had taken this craft heritage and turned it into a viable source of income for the people especially women. We have shown how traditional craft can be revived and transformed into an enterprise that enables rural women artisans to earn a dignified and sustainable livelihood.”

Initially conceptualised as a one-time ‘drought relief’ project, today, the initiative has turned as a source of income for many women in the region. “We started getting lots of letters from different parts of Kutch, asking for help. Within two years, my mother realised that it was now for life,” shares Ami and adds, “Many of these women are either farmers or cattle herders. They do not embroider all day, every day. For them, this is an alternate income.”

Apart from providing the women a source of income, the trust has also dedicated itself to reviving the age-old art of making unique hand-embroidered Kutch craft. She shares, “Though, the artisans in this region have been practicing this craft for generations, it was Shrujan that turned this heritage into a source of income. From helping 30 women, we have, over the last 40 years, helped more than 22,000 in 120 villages... and revived the art, as well. For the women the greatest advantage was that they could earn without leaving their homes. It’s been more than an earning. It has helped their self-esteem, dignity, positioning in the household. Their children are educated.”

The trust recently made further advancements in craft revival and preservation with the launch of the Living and Learning Design Centre (LLDC) in Bhuj. The nine-acre centre houses a one-of-its-kind museum that displays the embroideries of various communities of Kutch. “These are what we call living embroideries since these are communities that still embroider in Kutch,” explains Ami.

She continues, “In addition to showcasing the skills of embroidering communities, LLDC also aims to become a treasure trove of information about arts and crafts in Kutch. Its research wing is currently tracing the evolution of embroidery in these communities.”

With the shift in focus for reviving crafts, Ami believes that going forward more people will support and will be open to spend. She says, “Garnering publicity about these crafts individually and not just collectively is a big challenge. Apart from that, getting people to stop trying to bargain when it comes to prices is another problem. If you don't argue about the prices when you go to a designer shop, then why are you arguing about the same when you are buying from these artisans?”