Influences from the West

A decade ago, the term ‘pret-a-porter’ was neither understood, nor interpreted correctly in India as fashion was all about couture. However, today it is the biggest revenue generator in the garment industry.

Needless to say, the radical change in the mindset of consumers is because of the social media, television and other tools readily available on one’s fingertips. The change of preferences is happening worldwide and pret caters to those who are extremely aware of the latest fashion trends and discerning of comfort, durability and quality – especially the international buyers who have a greater influence in defining the Indian prêt.

“International buyers have taught us how to fuse elements, we take Western silhouettes and use Indian embroidery on it. While the design is ours, they just need a little tweaking to make it more structured according to the buyers. I once worked on a lehenga but the buyer asked me to make it into a jacket,” shares designer Siddartha Tytler, who gives credit to international buyers for bringing in the concept of quality control. “Now our finishing is up to the mark of international standards.”

Many designers are often influenced by the designs of the Western and the Eastern countries to which they cater. “Indian prêt wear is largely influenced by Western and Eastern countries because everyone is going along the lines of globalisation. Thus, it is the need of the hour. With modern times people demand change and variety in all fields, it is obvious to create innovative designs inspired by current trends,” shares designer Adarsh Gill, whose recent autumn-winter collection showcased at the Amazon Fashion Week was inspired by the 1950’s look, worn by the iconic Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn and Fiona Campbell.

Designer Payal Jain too feels that Indian prêt is a medley of the East and West - fusion in the true sense and consequently remains strongly influenced by both. “The Indian consumer wants the best of the West, but with a slight Eastern twist to fit into their lifestyle, weather conditions and geography, specially created to enhance their body type, skin tones and ethnicity. This has led to the birth of the ‘Indian Prêt’, which has taken the Indian market by storm,” shares Payal, who always married the East and West in her designs.

“I believe my designs have a Western body and an Indian soul,” she adds. And this philosophy remains evident in all her work and has grown with time, as her creations are subtle, minimalistic and native at heart, appealing to the global citizen while speaking a contemporary language.

However, designer Mandira Wirk begs to differ. She says, "Influence happens both ways. If you look at any good international designer -- be it the process of tie and die or the concept of traditional bangles, bindi or bandhani. And this works vice- versa, but it all depends how you put it together and make it into a unique ensemble altogether.

But what’s the basic difference that one sees among the international and domestic buyers in terms of their wants and specifications? Jain strongly believes that the lines and distinction have blurred between the sensibilities of the two over the last few years.

“Everyone wants the latest collections and Indian or Western wear is not the criteria any longer. I have always designed a western wear line, in terms of silhouettes, but I always work with Indian textiles, crafts, print techniques and embroideries. Thus, creating a balance between the two. The international buyers pick up the collections as they are, and sometimes these need slight tweaking for the Indian market,” explains Payal.

“Lately, the domestic consumers have been demanding for the outfits that we showcase on the ramp and sell across the world, with no changes to make it more ‘Indian’ in any way.”

However, Adarsh is of the opinion that domestic buyers are more influenced by the Indian weddings and festive seasons. “They are always on the lookout for customisation whether in size, colour or silhouette. Whereas, international buyers are keener to pick up the garment as it is and will pick up off the rack.”

Signing off, Mandira adds, “International buyers want to buy varied sizes, they go up to X sizes and are very specific with details and quality. But Indian buyers are also at par with them -- they are also very organised, good with payments and wonderful to work with.”