Lean is in, bulk is out

Just as the world of fashion is slowly beginning to include and involve the naturally fuller-figured female model on the runway, male models seem to be finding themselves at the other end of the scale as they are getting picked for their lanky frames. Yes, folks, bulk is out and lean is in. From Versace, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Dior to Rohit Bal, Tarun Tahiliani and JJ Valaya, the catwalk has been preferring leaner framed male models. Classically chiselled male models are taking a back seat now, as fashion trends around the world reflect the fashion industry’s choice of male models hinging on thinness and even androgyny.

In the early to mid-00’s, male models were quite bigger, recalls model Amit Ranjan, one of the most known faces in the fashion circuit. “When I started out, I was really thin and lean but people preferred bulkier looking models. So I was rejected quite a lot. Only a few handpicked designers wanted to sign me to walk down the ramp for them. I personally love that we are endorsing this natural body frame. When you are too heavy, your walk on the ramp echoes that of a bouncer outside a pub, which should never be the case when you are a model. We as models in India mostly showcase Indian designs, which are multi-layered and embellished. So a bulky frame won’t do justice to it at all.” A man should look like a man, he says, while adding that an ideal chest size should not go beyond 38-40 inches. “The body frame should neither be bulky nor too skinny,” he adds.

Model walking the runway for Emporio Armani

The new ideal male model is not just skinnier but also taller, hitting up to six feet two inches, says Daman Choudhary, noted model manager. Along with the fading ideal of muscle is the classically beautiful face, which earlier was a prerequisite, he adds. “A male model can be sort of interesting looking, or edgy, or different and be hired even if he does not fall into a category of plastic, beautiful models. Also, more and more designers are transfiguring the dominant vision of the masculine look into lanky, languorous and unique because for high fashion, that’s exactly what works. Designers are designing the clothes in such a way that if you had a big and muscular model, the clothes won’t fit.”

For noted stylist Rishi Raj, this trend represents a better and holistic body image, which, he says, will reign successfully in the coming few years too, both in India as well as internationally. “As the standards of what’s considered beautiful is changing, a lot of people who saw a bulky model knew that they were gym-manufactured muscles. It didn’t truly represent a holistic approach to natural body frame or one’s lifestyle. I would not say lean is in but an athletic figure is what we are looking at right now. When one is into some kind of sports instead of hitting the gym all day, one’s body takes a whole new form and shape, which is naturally leaner, stronger, high on stamina and extremely attractive because the muscles that get formed during sports are for real. And that truly represents good health and beauty now. I think it’s a great thing that male models are being looked at as real humans with natural shape versus gym bugs. Overstuffed pillowcases are out for good.”

Rishi further adds that too much of muscles also represented a very alpha/macho aura, whereas the world of fashion at the moment is all about embracing androgyny.               

“In life as well as in fashion, one tends to go to the extreme end before beginning with a new set of unique trends. This is what happened to us when we saw an overboard of beefy models. It got a little crazy. A lean body type fits perfectly under the androgynous wave that has taken the world of fashion by storm and so it greatly helps in showcasing well-fitted suits as well as something very Indian like a heavy sherwani and totally anti-fit silhouettes.” But just when the fashion world is embracing fuller-female models, why such a different trend when it comes to men? And will this lead to a wave of ultra skinny, anorexic male models? Fashion forecaster and trend-spotter Purushu Arie says, “That’s unfortunate, isn’t it? Take a look at body image ideals down the history of women. A wide range of body shapes from pear to size zero has trended at different timelines. However, from Michaelangelo’s David to People magazine’s sexiest men of the year, the notion of ideal male beauty has always been associated with

bulging abs and square jawline. Even some of the most progressive Renaissance artists like Da Vinci gave dimensions of what a perfect man’s anatomy should be like. Since the 1970s a lot has been done to raise awareness about how gender norms have created inequality in society. However, these issues are mainly pointed out by women’s movements and there’s a strong preconceived notion that gender issues are issues about women. Unfortunately, we’ve established the idea that social status of men is normalcy and gender issues are about how social status of women deviates from the norm. This isn’t true. Even men are subjected to stigma and pressure due to gender norms of masculinity and femininity. In the modern era, mass media has become one of the largest contributors of manufacturing socio-cultural standards of beauty for men. Conversely, the actors are non-muscular individuals when it comes to comedies like Superbad and The Hangover. Films have normalised the idea that non-muscularity doesn’t fit the hero image.

100% of Men’s Health covers address the theme of having a ‘hard body’ thereby creating a stereotyped image of masculinity. Not meeting social expectations of being a muscular male may cause mental stigma, low self-esteem and even steroid abuse among men.” He lastly adds, “I think it’s important to have diverse representations of society other than just the steroid abused bodies in mass-media portrayal. Everything from a rockstar’s slender frame to a football player’s sculpted muscular frame can look sexy and beautiful and it’s time to stop burdening young adults to look older and bigger.”