Bikini in the line of fire again

With the bikini being vilified by a Union minister, the question to be asked is whether this two-piece swimwear is really an affront to our Indianness.

The bikini is yet again in the line of fire with Union tourism minister K.J. Alphons condemning the rising bikini culture among tourists, and stressing on the need for a dress code. This stylish and sexy two-piece swimwear repeatedly earns the frowns and criticism of the moral police who consider it against Indian culture. But is it really an affront to our Indianness?

“India is becoming a global economy, we can’t determine choices by culture or tradition these days,” says designer Charu Vij, adding, “When we want to reach an international level in all fields, how can one put a barrier in any aspect? To each his own.”

The minister’s comment reflects an inaccurate understanding of Indian sartorial heritage, feels Sumiran Kabir Sharma, founder and creative director, Anaam. “In ancient times, before the Mughals came, it was acceptable for women not to wear anything on top and have a draped garment on the bottom half. The historical evidence, from various paintings and sculptures to Harappan terracotta figurines, points towards it. Thus, the minister needs to have a better understanding of the historical context of the country he speaks for.”

Actor Pranav Sachdeva found the minister’s statement quite shocking and rues the “growing regressive attitude” of officials who on one hand talk about the need for women empowerment and on the other, indulge in moral policing. “I don’t understand the meaning of ‘acceptable’ dresses,” he says. “Who decides what is appropriate or not? I strongly feel that people making such comments should be more accepting of whatever one wishes to wear.”

Beach holidays are all about carefree fun, and enforcing a dress code would be a total mood spoiler, feel many. “Condemning bikini wear for tourists is something uncalled for, and stressing on a need for a dress code is a setback for people who prefer beaches as a rejuvenating vacation,” says designer Ritu Dhawan, adding, “I don’t think any moral policing is needed. It’s a matter of personal choice as to what one wears or doesn’t. And it’s an interesting phase for resort wear in India with our fashion industry becoming creative and broadening its perspective on beachwear, and offering maxi dresses and ease-breezy wear for a perfect vacation.”

Tourists have a right to decide what they wear on holiday, and they are sensible enough not to opt for anything outrageous or extremely offensive, feels Sharma. “Foreigners are educated enough to distinguish when and what to wear. And if one is inclined to dissect the traditional dress of India—the sari—it is a three-piece ensemble, often showing a lot of areas of a body. So having a dress code with a pretext of false historical and traditional knowledge is completely banal and against the freedom of expression, and art and fashion,” he says.

The Indian fashion industry is seeing a growing demand in resort wear, and the domestic buyer’s choice reflects a global fashion sensibility.

“As a designer, I have not seen any distinction between the choices of international and domestic buyers in terms of resort wear,” says Sharma, adding, “In India the neck depth is around eight to 10 inches and there has been no specific demand for covering it up or omitting certain cuts. Personally, I never let such comments or views get to me. If my creative freedom is restricted here, I’ll go somewhere else, but I’ll never let others decide what I want to do.”