Better latte than never
On International Coffee Day, city-dwellers recall their favourite haunts and varieties.
If tomorrow we honour one of the greatest exponents of non-violence to have ever lived, today we venerate the reason why we can sail through a stressful day of work in a slowed-down economy — coffee. International Coffee Day may be an annual affair, but if every day isn’t coffee day, what is even the point to life?
Well, exaggeration and caffeine addiction aside, we cannot be any more thankful that someone, somewhere, unearthed this magical bean and changed the world. Delhi is no Chikmagalur with its coffee estates, or a hub for the divine South Indian filter coffee, but the city enjoys its fill, right to the brim. And, it always has. “Even in the 80s, Indian Coffee House and United Coffee House were institutions in Connaught Place. The former was more accessible, while the latter pulled in people for the posh vibe. The coffee is still great at both places,” recalls Gulratan Singh, whose family has lived in the city since the 1970s. Indeed, both establishments have existed since 60-70 years, and continue to draw hordes of crowds.
Singh also recalls two other 80s' haunts that ended up with contrasting fates — Mocha in Defence Colony (now shut) and Depaul's in CP (which is now a full-fledged brand). But then, as the decades passed, it all became about coffee chains and fast-food brands, and the cookie-cutter coffee began to saturate the market.
Luckily, since the past few years, artisanal coffee has been making its way to the capital. Jaideep Misra, a city-based millennial, comments, “More often than not, I find myself at Blue Tokai after work. Their strong, roasted coffee beans mean I prefer their selection over everything else.”
Similarly, plenty of cafés, each serving a host of unique coffees, have cropped up all over the city. On this, Shikha Kukreja, a professor, chimes in, “Thanks to these amazing places we have good ambience and amazing coffee with snacks. Various flavours are available that are satisfying for the taste buds, and to have a nice cuppa with a best friend.”
But while better coffee may be available in the city now, the soul of a place lies in its kiosks, vendors and, in Delhi’s case, its rediwallas (trolley shop owners) and panwadis (paan-shop-owners). Jaideep continues, “I live in Saket, near Anupam PVR market. Every panwadi there stocks a mixer-blender, where they make cold coffee for which you only have to spend '30. It takes just like ghar ki coffee (coffee made at home) — creamy, sweet and a meal in itself.”