A biker's solo ride to India's northernmost point on LoC

New Delhi: A die-hard biker's enduring journey from the national capital region to the northernmost point on the LoC forms the plot of a new book which not only provides a glimpse of the pristine beauty of Kashmir but also talks about its people, politics, culture and cuisine.

On May 20, 2013, Assam-born journalist-traveller Sabir Hussain embarked on a solo ride from Vaishali on Delhi-UP border to Turtuk via Ambala, Jalandhar, Pathankot,  Jammu, Rajouri, Shopian, Srinagar, Sonamarg and Ladakh.

The total distance was 1,600 km one way and he had for company his Suzuki 150cc Fiero, loaded with saddlebags and a few packets containing tools, spare parts, shoes and water bottles.

Travelling on a shoestring budget through the historic Mughal Road, bereft of any fancy travel accouterments, living in nondescript hotels and homes of friends, Hussain traversed on breathtaking and often dangerous roads.

And in his book "Battlefields & Paradise", published by Westland, Hussain also talks about the politics of Kashmir, straight from the mouths of ordinary people with extraordinary resilience and hope in their hearts.

"Kashmir's complex politics has ensured that there will be no quick end to the continuing imbroglio.

"Divergent opinions, with a bloodied history spanning almost six decades, has driven a deep schism in the state's politics it's a constant tussle between political parties who are poised on two extreme sides of the spectrum, as hawks and dives or hardliners and moderates having appropriated their respective constituencies, and content with what they call a continuing battle to reclaim Kashmir," he writes.

But for the average Kashmiri, peace is yet to come and remains as elusive as the sun during the harsh winters, he says.

"In recent times, a couple of interlocutors from Delhi had arrived in the state to engage with political parties, but alas, little or nothing came of it save loud TV debates on sundry news channels. And with the Pakistani army intent on fishing in troubled waters, peace and normalcy is still a mirage in the Valley," he writes.

Hussain meets several people during his journey, including army officials, tourists and also IPL cricketer Parvez Rasool.

He also visits some strategic army landmarks including the Kaman Post.

He chose the month of May-June for his expedition because it is only during this period when the Zoji La (Pass), which links Kashmir to Ladakh, is thrown open to traffic by the Indian Army.

"More importantly, the thick carpet of snow on its wide and often unmotorable stretches depletes in this season, making it conducive for a motorbike ride," he says.

Though he countered numerous hairpin bends, sharp gradients and extremely bad roads, little did he know that extreme weather conditions would almost dash his dream.

The Zoji La, literally meaning the pass of blizzards, was in bad shape due to rains and Hussain was advised by all including his wife not to continue with his ride.

But not willing to budge, he decided to take a bus journey to Leh and from there continue with his journey with a rented motorbike thus realising his dream of riding to Turtuk.