Ganpatipule: A surprise beyond the cliffs

Offering a breathtaking view from over the cliff, the Ganpatipule beach is a traveller’s treat especially on a rain-soaked day

The gear drops into its slot with a deafening clanky protest, the bus seems to pause and then lurches forward, the engine screams like a beast and the entire body frame shudders. For a moment it appears the bus will be pulverised into oblivion. The metallic grinding of the gears, the ear-shredding screams of the engine and the clattering of the window panes — it seems you are caught in a Transformers movie. Remember this is Western Ghats and here in Ratnagiri, everything comes with a surprise. It seems the entire city of Ratnagiri sits precariously with its edges falling off the vertical cliffs straight into the sea. You see the waves lashing at the foot of the cliffs at Thibaw Palace and then again at Ratnadurg. And then you grab the seat rails as the driver throws the bus into another hairpin bend. And then the view blows you away. You may never had imagined India had roads that snaked high over cliffs with roaring waves below.

On a rain swept day, the screaming bus ride high up on the hills by the sea is purely exhilarating. While the first half at Thibaw Palace filled us with all pervading sadness, few hours later, the thrilling ride to Ganpatipule has filled us with joy. There is more to come.

The bus on the short route from Ratnagiri to Malgund, two kilometres away, drops you at the Ganpatipule checkpost. Ganpatipule is a village famous for its Swayambhu or self-originated Ganesh temple. The deity is considered the Paschim Dvardevta or Western Sentinel, one of the Ashta Dwar Devatas or Eight Welcoming Deities. Legend has it that Lord Ganpati, angered by the remark made by a local woman, moved to Pule or a sand dune from his original abode in Gule a few kilometres away. And so the place got its name Ganpatipule.

Today, one is more interested in the beach that provides front row seats to the incredible display of lights and shadows over the Arabian Sea.

The sky is dark with another impending rain dance performance as you walk towards the beach. The same greenery and moss-covered walls guide you towards the beach, which on both sides is fringed with hills. Coconut palms, mangroves and cashew trees provide a green canopy. The hills above, the water beyond and the clean and golden beach all seem to be enveloped in this mist.

Shacks are boarded up; the MTDC resort on the hill looks vacant. You walk into the distance through the lapping waves. Some rocks still survive on the sands even after the lashing by the waves all these years. Sitting on the sand with your back against a rock will be your front row seat to the promised show in the sky.

And then things start to happen rapidly. It is sunset time. The rain stops all of a sudden, and the mist begins to lift over the hills. The seemingly stone like impenetrable grey skies break up to give shapes to the clouds that start to float revealing an opening. As if on cue, the sun appears through this opening in the sky almost as if God has lifted the curtain off the heavens especially for you. You have bought all the seats in the theatre. For the next fifteen minutes, you are treated to a celestial spectacle as the sun and the clouds and the water come together to put up a soul-stirring performance that has been ethereally choreographed.

The clouds move back in. Now this particular cloud seems to hang over the waters. God has brought down the curtains after the spellbinding performance. You don’t remember ever seeing such a play of light and shadow from a beach and you have seen plenty of sunsets on the sea. It is quite possible that together with the cliff-hanging drive to the beach, this light-shadow play phenomenon is unique to Ganpatipule Beach.

Getting there: Ganpatipule is 25 km north of Ratnagiri, Maharashtra. For spectacular views of the sea and surf, take the Aare Ware road, which is different from the NH-17 Mumbai-Goa highway.

Ratnagiri lies on the south west coast of Maharashtra on the Mumbai-Goa highway and is well connected by trains from Mumbai. Ratnagiri is about about 350 km from Mumbai and 300 km from Pune. In Ratnagiri you can hire auto rickshaws to take you around the town and to the fort. The Jijamata Garden will offer you spectacular views of Arabian Sea and Bhatye Beach. Other attractions are Ratnadurg with its Lighthouse and Thibaw Palace, now turned into a museum.

Travel trip: On the way to Ganpatipule from Ratnagiri, if taking public transport, sit on the left of the bus to see the amazing views as you soar high above the cliffs with sea stretching into the horizon and waves crashing below your feet.