“Pan Indian” — that’s a buzzword that is often used to describe the city’s restaurant these days, but it hardly lives up to the name. 29, a restaurant in Kemps Corner promises to offer authentic regional cuisine from 29 states from across the country.
The understated yet vibrant décor is bright enough to perk you up. The coloured panels, interspersed with the white walls, offer an appealing contrast and the aesthetic lamps over the wooden tables with brightly coloured seats, enhance the atmosphere.
We start with some pyaaz (onion) kachoris, a staple from Rajasthan. The flaky deep-fried kachori, which has the right amount of potatoes and onions, was a treat to the taste buds. The bharvan khumb (stuffed mushrooms) from Uttarakhand was well stuffed and crisp, but paled in comparison to the kachoris. The simple potato chops got a flavourful boost from the Assamese sanmeholi chutney (made with Assamese chillies). One appetiser you cannot go wrong with here is the Dilli chaat — replete with the right ingredients and doused with fresh chutneys, it was a winner all the way.
Next, I dived into my litti chokha, a winter favourite from Bihar again. The stuffed bread made from pulses and cereals, was the perfect accompaniment for baigan bharta, with copious amounts of onions and tomatoes imparting it a tangy and smoky flavour. The piece de resistance, however, was the Kanpuri tikka pulav. Replete with intense flavours, the chef served the lightly flavoured yakhni pulao with dry and a gravy paneer.
The mawa jalebis with kesar rabdi were truly a grand finale to the meal. The jalebis crisp and fried to perfection and the rabdi, infused with kesar, yet not too sweet or overpowering.
29 truly showcases the best of Indian regional food and is a must-visit, as it does not offer the usual fare. The food is true to the flavours of the region represented and the ingredients have been sourced painstakingly.
Average cost for two: Rs 900 (including taxes)
Mini Ribeiro is a food writer
