When it comes to fashion, women always take centrestage. Even in prominent fashion weeks across the globe, you’ll find very few designers focusing on menswear. Breaking the mould, Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) presented two specially curated menswear shows at the ongoing Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2016.
“Menswear is steadily growing and seeing this rising trend compelled us to present a menswear show at AIFW AW16,” FDCI President Sunil Sethi says and adds, “A man’s wardrobe is now an integral part of the design narrative. Our coveted designers have showcased a modernistic collection, which as you saw has made an impact on the contemporary fashion repertoire.”
The first show featured three young designers showcasing their collections for the first time at AIFW while the second boasted of fashion bigwigs like Rohit Bal and JJ Valaya. “The idea for both shows was to celebrate fashion and encourage business opportunities wherever possible. We used to have a separate men’s fashion week a few years back but it did not work very well in terms of business, as many buyers would not turn up for the event. This time, we thought we have a platform here, where buyers are already in, so why not showcase a show featuring only menswear ” Sunil asks and adds, “All three designers showcased in the first show were selected based on merit. The show featuring senior designers was planned only a week before because everyone got very excited and began asking for more all-men shows.”
He goes on, “For that show we chose a narrative based on colours like black, white, ivory and beige, and asked each designer to showcase five ensembles.”
The first show featured Antar Agni by Ujjawal Dubey, Divyam Mehta and Rohit Kamra. Each had a very distinctive theme and a unique way of interpreting it. “The collections showcased by these young designers added undiluted pizzazz to the event. This is a first for us, as we felt it will give a 3D experience to the viewers,” Sunil muses.
Ujjawal Dubey, talking about his collection, shares, “The idea was to showcase something wearable and at the same time something different from the usual. I specialise in menswear because that is where my design sensibility and approach works the best. I always focus on the individuality of a man, who believes in departing from conventional style, leaving an influential impact on the present, and carries a strong and admirable aura around him. In my collection I try to showcase effortless styling.”
Titled ‘The Red in Us’, the collection had an ethnic and contemporary look for the modern Indian man. “The modern man for me is someone who can be a part of a big party wearing my garment and would also not shy away from stopping for a cup of tea at a roadside dhaba wearing the same,” explained Ujjawal.
Designer Divyam Mehta interpreted the modern man as a globetrotter who seamlessly adapts to different environments. The line drew inspiration from the wilderness and texture of tree barks bringing about a feeling of freedom and intensity, blending into laboriously executed Shibori patterns. It included Samurai trousers, carrot trousers, gilets, trench bandhgalas, double-breasted suits, desert boots and sneakers. Divyam said, “He is strong, confident and intense, that is what I have tried to showcase in my collection. It’s for the urban nomad who embraces the contemporary and still has deep love and understanding for the traditional. I think the overall look should appeal to a younger audience that is free to adapt and experiment. However, individual pieces can be worn in a very classic way as well.”
Interestingly, Rohit Kamra’s collection redefined the royal look by modernising it through sharply tailored bandhgalas and breeches. “Made in Jaypore” had a rich influence of the princely state and presented an amalgamation of traditional and modern — sherwanis with trench coats, bandhgalas, trousers, Jodhpur jackets and breeches, Nehru jackets as well as waistcoats. “I have carried forward my signature style, which I have been doing for the last couple of years since I started with the concept of the modern maharaja. The modern maharaja is a person who feels like a king from the inside,” shares Rohit. Using fabrics like flannel, wool, wool-khadi, silk and cotton, the line was filled with hues of black, white, grey, blue and green. The masculine silhouettes also flaunted geometrical motifs. Actor Randeep Hooda walked the ramp for the designer and said of his collection, “I don’t feel like a maharaja all the time but when I wear these clothes, I do. Rohit has done a great job of bringing old world charm with modern touches to his collection. It was a great show.”
Cool, casual yet classy seemed to be the tone for the second all-men show based on a monochrome theme, featuring top designers. The line went from formal suits and tuxedos to casual and ethnic Indian wear. Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna fused Indian sensibilities with western trousers while JJ Valaya presented a flavour of the royal Indian man through his velvet bandhgala kurtas and Jodhpuri jackets. Ashish Soni’s unconventional suits with Kolhapuris added a quintessential punk element. Varun Bahl promoted flower power with his man confidently sporting floral patterns and motifs.
On the other hand, Abhishek Gupta’s men were prim and proper while Troy Costa had the rugged Kabaddi players, dressed in tuxedos nonetheless, walk the ramp for him. Rohit Bal presented the Gothic side of his designs with models donning Gothic castle prints and sporting smudged eyes. Speaking after the show, Rohit Bal said, “This already seems like a finale to us. We are very happy and in the near future we believe we will have a fashion week dedicated to menswear.”
