Barely a handful have attempted the roughly 700-kilometre ride on a non-geared, 110cc Activa, but that did not stop this travel buff!
Don’t be alarmed. While I’m not the only one to tread that path, we are assured barely a handful have attempted the roughly 700-kilometre ride on a non-geared, 110cc Activa. It does seem like a daunting task to cover a distance that far on a scooter with a reputation for heating up and close to zero suspension to protect your behind from the inevitable bumps on the journey.
What not many seem to understand is that, the coastal route (from Bombay to Goa) that we chose is one of the most scenic, scarcely used and dotted with little delights like rural landscapes and forts. If you like long rides, you won’t regret giving the NH17 a miss.
My companions — let’s call them B and D, on a Royal Enfield Bullet and TVS Apache respectively, made sure the assurance, route planning, technical advice, and all encouragement I’d need on my first long distance ride, was in place. No, there were no elaborate meetings to discuss the plan, just three enthusiastic travellers seeking adventure at a leisurely pace.
We started off on a cold December morning from Ferry Wharf, where the first ferry across to Rewas starts at 6.30 am. A cop verified copies of our documents before we, along with our bikes, boarded the ferry. Mini heart attacks are in order when you watch your vehicle being towed and literally tipped onto the ferry’s upper deck. The warm blaze creeping up in the distance, hungry seagulls waiting for you to open some snacks, bikes fastened to the railings, fisherfolk going about their routine business are scenes that greet you as you embark on a thrilling journey. Not bad for a start, eh
The one-hour ride from Rewas to Alibag is fairly comfortable for a stretch, but the roads do get a little chaotic after a point. Post Alibag, if you’re historically inclined, you can check out Revdanda and Korlai forts. We skipped these and headed to Kashid to make our first halt. Kashid is quite popular with the weekend crowds, and has a clean white sand beachfront, water sports, some good stay options like bungalows and resorts. Another stop one can spare time for is the Janjira fort at Murud. Situated in the middle of the sea, the fort stands elegant and strong, a proof of Maharashtra’s past ridden with warfare glory. Villagers of Rajpuri run small boats that take you to the fort and back for a nominal fee (approx. Rs 30 per person). As they know the fort like the back of their hands, they will even provide you with trivia of the former stronghold of the Siddi dynasty for an extra charge (Rs 100).
If you thought the ferry at Bhaucha Dhakka was small, you have to see the one at Rajpuri. Barely bigger than a boat, and a roof to boast of, it can accommodate 10-12 two-wheelers plus people. It’s wise to do some research about ferry timings as a lot of time can be wasted just waiting for one. The Rajpuri ferry took us half-an-hour to reach the other end, Dighi.
The next leg of the journey was a combination of fine roads, punctuated with pristine beaches like Diveagar and Shrivardhan. While Diveagar is famous for its Ganesha of Gold temple, Shrivardhan is known for its Laxminarayan Temple, several untouched beaches and a rich Maratha past. For the first night, we retired at Harihareshwar, another well-known beach and temple town. A walk on the beach is a revelation of the simple fishing life, and rock formations in interesting shapes and moss-laden hues. The town falls silent by 9 pm. Beautiful cottages with a narrow approach road, lined with trees, and sound of waves transported from the sea made Harihareshwar an experience to treasure.
Setting restlessness as our alarm, on the second day we woke up fairly early and set out at the break of dawn. Our first ferry at Bankot was barely 3.8-km from Harihareshwar. The ride-on-ride-off ferry meant no mini heart attacks of bikes being manhandled, quite literally.
Roughly 2-km off route is the not-to-be missed Bankot Fort. A narrow and steep winding road leads to the fort. This road passes through the village and leads to the fort hill. Now in ruins, Bankot Fort provides a breathtaking view of the bay. Also known as Himmatgad, spending some quiet time here is definitely a source of much-needed himmat (strength) to take on the rest of the coastline.
The road ahead, from Bankot to Kelshi and Anjarle (alongside Savitri river) is the stuff nightmares are made of. A stop at Anjarle was a reward after the daunting road preceding it. Peaceful, virgin beach, rustic houses, friendly locals and typical village scenes made it a worthwhile breakfast stop. The road after Anjarle threw some scenic surprises on the right. Apart from beaches and swaying palms in the distance, a lake appearing out of nowhere surrounded by thick forestation demanded a halt to soak in a typical view only the West coast could throw up.
The ferry from Dabhol to Dopave (across the Vashishti river) put us on track towards Guhagar, Velneshwar and Hedavi. A friendly local guided us so we did not stray from the coast. Smooth roads and the sun reflecting its charm on the water, made for good companions on the right hand side. A ferry from Tavsal took us to Jaigad, which has a lighthouse and famous 17th century fort. Comparatively smaller than forts in Sindhudurg and Ratnagiri districts, Jaigad offers a commanding view of the open sea.
Our stop for the night, Ganpatipule, is only 20 km from Jaigad and easily accessible by road. Ganpatipule is a Hindu temple town, frequented for its temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha. In addition to a lot of devotees, camels, pesky photographers with portable printers, chaat shops, toy sellers are common sights here. Our third, and most awaited day of the ride saw us leave Ganapatipule while it was still dark. Good roads, the chill in the air, greenery and presence of the ocean on the right makes the stretch from Ganpatipule to Ratnagiri picturesque and worth admiring in daylight. We crossed Pavas, Bhandarwadi, Nate, Jaitapur, Dabhole, Kunkeshwar to cover around 200 km to reach Malvan and then Tarkarli. These roads are wide, with post-monsoon dried grass on either forming a pretty landscape of yellows and browns, while the sky provides a stark contrast of blue with cotton-like clouds dotting it. Our GoPros captured spectacular, panoramic views The cool wind slapping your face is a gentle reminder of your purpose of being alive and energetic.
Tarkarli is touristy, yet sleepy around afternoon. We checked into a beautiful, wooden guesthouse that overlooked a river on the front and was only a five-minute walk from the back. The host at the guesthouse helped us with contacts for water sports at the beach, and thus began a scuba diving adventure with Sai and his team. After an interesting exercise of watching Sai’s boys set a boat sailing in water using round logs of wood, some swear words and a lot of energy, a ten-minute ride into the sea takes you to the spot where you can see corals and fish. A quick guide on what to expect underwater, including sign language, and voila, you’re ready to take the plunge.
For a first timer, scuba diving at Tarkarli can be a great experience, especially if you’re willing to discount the fairly muddy waters. We spent the rest of the evening lazing around the beach, taking pictures and shooting some good footage of setting sun. Tarkarli also boasts of some delectable Malvani food that is available at most homestays and the MTDC resort. The village was alive late into the night as they were celebrating a feast and locals urged us to participate in the auction of fresh fish for dinner. We politely declined and settled for dinner in a homely environment, scrumptious fish preparations and warm service.
Sindhudurg fort is another attraction close by that needs a good 4 hours to explore. Just like at Murud-Janjira, a boat ride takes you to the fort with the boatman doubling up as a guide. Limestone walls, a number of temples dedicated to deities and imposing architecture are a draw for history buffs.
On the last day, we bid Tarkarli adieu and set out for our final destination — Goa. The road from Vengurla in Sindhudurg, close to the Sindhudurg Greenfield Airport (under-construction) earns the badge of ‘worst road of the trip’, thanks to neglect and apathy. Hopefully, it won’t be as dreadful once the airport is ready. We entered Goa through Tirakol, an idyllic fishing village torn between the pulls of land sharks and locals struggling to hold on to their heritage. The Tirakhol Fort (now converted into a heritage hotel) is perched on a hilltop and hosts foreigners, whilst being an employment creator for the locals. Linking to the mainland via road and ferry service Tirakol is a gateway into Goa. We chose the ferry to Keri and boom, achievement unlocked!
Undoubtedly, the road trip has been an enriching one. From appreciating some of the best natural landscapes along the west coast and sampling lip-smacking delicacies, to interacting with locals and resolving to preserve the pristine beauty of the Konkan, we parted ways not before planning other epic road trips further down the coast. Fortunately enough none of us suffered any breakdowns.
For skeptics wondering how the Activa fared on curves, steep slopes and bad roads, let me assure you, it was just as brilliant as any other geared bike. Poor suspension is a well-known drawback, but when you’re cruising at 40 kmph, feasting on majestic sights on all sides, nothing else matters.
The route Day 1: Bhaucha Dhakka (Mumbai) to Harihareshwar Rewas – Alibaug – Revdanda – Kashid – Murud Janjira – Rajpuri Rajpuri – ferry to Dighi – Diveagar – Shrivardhan – Harihareshwar
Day 2: Harihareshwar to Ganapatipule Harihareshwar – Bagamandla – ferry to Bankot – Kelashi – Anjarla – Harnai – Dapoli – Ladghar – Burondi – Dabhol Dabhol – ferry to Dhopave / Anjanvel – Guhagar – Velneshwar – Hedavi – Tavsal – ferry to Jaigad – Ganapatipule
Day 3: Ganapatipule to Tarkarli Ganapatipule – Ratnagiri – Pavas – Bhandarwadi – Nate – Jaitapur – Dabhole – Kunkeshwar – Malvan – Tarkarli
Day 4: Tarkali to Keri (Goa) Tarkali – Malvan – Vengurla – Shiroda – Tirakol – Keri
Things to remember Be prepared for the worst (tyre flats, breakdowns, bad roads, unfortunate falls etc.) Listen to the locals. They give the best advice. Stress yourself, but not your vehicle. Stop if you have to. Have a rough route plan handy. Improvise along the way. Respect fellow motorists, cyclists. You don’t own the road.
