Ageless threads of beauty

Embroidery or thread work has an uncanny knack for bringing an outfit to life. A floral motif on a white organza kurti, for example, will not only jazz up your look but also add a trendy twist to it. In fact, even Bollywood celebrities like Alia Bhatt, Katrina Kaif, Shraddha Kapoor, Priyanka Chopra, Madhuri Dixit and Radhika Apte, to name a few, have embraced thread work as their go-to design on several occasions.

Time and again, Alia has been spotted with chic embroidered outfits — be it a traditional kurta or gown with a dash of popping red needle work. Even Hollywood star Emma Watson was spotted wearing an embroidered gown at an event recently.  

“It’s incredibly challenging to create something with the traditional crafts of India yet simultaneously universal. Globally, I feel people do have a huge respect for Indian craftsmanship. We just need to take out the ethnic feel out of the ethnic techniques and create a more global product; that’s what the world demands,” says designer Rahul Mishra, who has been working relentlessly to make embroidery appealing to the global consumer.

While working with decorative threads, Rahul treats his clothes like canvasses, expressing himself through embroidery. For this international award-winning designer, the art form sits perfectly with Gandhian ideology — since embroidery is done by hand, it creates more employment opportunities.

He further says, “I look at all these different types of embroideries as techniques to create a more contemporary design. I use a lot of mixed media while exploring different artworks and techniques. We could create French knots using aari and zardozi work, or we could be working on something with a lot of patchwork, or maybe even create something with a Parsi gara. It’s really just about exploring these traditional techniques to find new ones,” adds Rahul.

Explaining about the ever-so-voguish trend of embroidered clothes, designer Divya Reddy says, “Thread work can never be out of fashion but how you wear it does matter a lot. The key is not to go overboard. Florals are always the go-to thing when it comes to thread works but a quirky cartoon bird too can do wonders.”

Embroidered flowers are a classic hit, paired perfectly in contrast with pastel shades. Moreover, thread work suits everyone and any body type; it’s the cut and the silhouette which has to be taken care of. “The placement of flowers does the trick. If one wants a slender waistline, floral work will be the heaviest on the waist, going light all over,” shares designer Shriya Som.

Whether you are off to work or going for a casual Sunday brunch with friends, a denim jacket with embroidered motifs paired with palazzos can do wonders. Or if one’s in a dilemma about going completely desi or sporting a fusion look, an embroidered skirt can save the day! Pair it with a cold-shoulder top, a crisp white shirt or a crop top to ace the fusion style, feels celebrity stylist Ami Patel.

Designer Gaurang Shah too loves to experiment with the needle quite often. “I get inspired by embroideries like chikankari, zarodzi, patti ka kaam (appliqué), aari, kasuti and other very rooted traditional handwork. While most designs that are attempted in embroidery are usually florals, I like to break away from conventions and explore geometrics, designs inspired from Persian tiles and a play of colours to get a 3D depth,” he says.

For another designer who loves the magic of the thread and the needle, it is the fabric and colours that matters the most. “I choose thread colours based on the fabrics. I enjoy transforming plain fabrics by using threads to form simple yet abstract designs,” says city’s Vijay Rana.