After having watched Malgudi Days on DD, it was that hour of vegetarianism which got us excited on a Sunday in the late 80’s. I still remember my grandfather used to get me hot vadas and dosas from Sree Krishna Cafe in Mattanchery. Even though we were a big bunch of meat eaters, come 4 pm on a Sunday, most of us observed this make-shift earth hour only to turn the feasting to a plateful of vadai, ghee roast and that thick coconut chutney from Krishna cafe. The place still continues to be popular as the sole vegetarian place in these parts; nevertheless, its days of glory are long gone and one can only find space for them in nostalgic bedtime stories.
Move to the city, even Dwaraka had its glory days and was again a popular place with fond memories, so were Woodlands, BTH and Bimbis. Places like Brindavan, Saravana Bhavan, Aryaas, Ambiswamy, Sree Krishna Inn, Tiffins and Maharaja Bhog, etc. have now taken over the mantle of entertaining Kochi’s vegetarian cravings. An exception when it comes to old glory is the Punjab House on Broadway. It has always remained consistent with their north Indian vegetarian when the South Indian Vegetarian eateries were battling it out amongst themselves to take pole position. One of the contributing factors to this decline or deterioration in generating a clientele (for vegetarian) is the perception of the discerning consumer.
A foodie from Kochi is now not an ordinary Biriyani eating chaat lover who knows nothing beyond porotta and beef or chilli chicken and fried rice. The average Kochi foodie now makes food trips abroad and is accustomed to eating all sorts of street food and dining at posh places that are Instagram worthy. It is now exceedingly difficult to compete as a veg-only place, when there is a myriad of cuisines staring down at the humble idly-vada-dosa. The discerning foodie in me will not want to accept a place that lacks hygiene and clean washrooms even if it is the food that matters in a restaurant. Let bygones be bygones, hoping that these good old eateries make up for lost glory with a much needed facelift and many more to choose from, for Kochi’s own vegetarian bellies.
(The writer (aka FCboy) is a food writer and columnist and the author of the book ‘Soul fried Monologues’)
