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The Santa next door

One of Mumbai's oldest Portuguese neighbourhoods, Santa Claus comes with no white beard or bright red suit, but with a hand-painted guitar.

Far from the madding crowd of Bandra and Mount Mary’s church, through a narrow, almost unnoticeable lane, lays a Christmas wonderland —Khotachi Wadi. This small Portuguese village, tucked away in Girgaum Chowpatty, is home to buildings that date back all the way to the 1940s. Though not all the original residents have remained, the hamlet is a small world in its own right, untouched by modern architecture. Like every year, the residents of the neighbourhood have got together to create a Christmas village. While the manger at the small community chapel and the giant eight-point star create quite the sight, perhaps the most impressive décor is that of Khotachi Wadi resident and guitar-playing maverick, Wilfred Felizardo’s sloping Goan-style roof.

Known to his friends and neighbours as Willie Black, Wilfred has been hosting Christmas parties for the kids at Khotachi Wadi for over two decades. “The first time I did it, I went big and used all my bonus money on it. More than a 100 kids came to the party. Now, I’m not as young as I used to be, I just spread the word when people walk by my door and they turn up,” he shrugs.

He may say that he is getting on in years, but the fifty-something guitar teacher has unflagging energy when it comes to decorating his home each year. “I made cut-out reindeer from thermocol sheets, got a snowman and Santa Claus, and decked up the whole roof with fake snow,” he explains, adding that he must have climbed up and down the ladder a 100 times to get everything in place.

An iconic mural of Mother Mary and Baby Jesus in Khotachi Wadi.An iconic mural of Mother Mary and Baby Jesus in Khotachi Wadi.

On his way to pick up cartons of juice and chocolate for his Christmas party, which will take place this evening, Willie took time out to serenade us with a couple of jingles that he will be singing for the kids. “Jingle bells, jingle bells Santa ala re,” he croons, his baritone voice turning his version of the jolly kids song into a foot-tapping reggae number.

“I go carolling too. I went on December 23, with some of the other Catholics and also a few of the Hindu residents who join in for a few fun numbers. I had a seven-year-old Santa Claus for an assistant this year,” he smiles.

Willie’s brother Philip Felizardo is a part of the neighbourhood Catholic organisation, which has been decorating the neighbourhood. He stands in the midst of a mass of red and white paper cut-outs, as he explains the neighbourhood’s plans for Christmas. “On December 24, we go for a late mass at the neighbourhood church and then we come back and there’s a party here, with music and dancing and the whole area will be lit up with fairy lights and with the light of this star,” he says, pointing to a white and red star that is the centre attraction in the room and needs as many as four chairs to support it. “We usually make five-point stars, but this time round, we decided to go with an eight-point one,” he adds.

Deloit employee and Christmastime enthusiast Rihanne Gonsalves is another resident who has been lending a hand to make Christmas special for the Khotachi Wadi residents. “We’ve already set up the manger. The star was more difficult, though, since it’s more elaborate than usual. We have four longer spikes and four shorter ones and we’ve decorated the surface with cut-outs of red chart paper,” she explains, adding that she is looking forward to seeing it shine this Christmas for all the residents of the hamlet.

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