Afghan women have lost a lot to the war and turmoil that has scarred their land and lives. Offerig them strength and support is a charity run by Sophia Swire that helps women of Afghanistan learn entrepreneurship, technical and business skills through jewellery designing.
Sophia, who was recently in the capital to launch a lazuli-encrusted line, in collaboration with Amrapali Jewels, talks about the initiative.
“The line is created by Afghan women using techniques they learned during their training session in Jaipur. They worked with three international designers who helped them with designing, craftsmanship and gem-cutting at the Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery in Jaipur,” shares Sophia, adding, “The aim of this initiative is to help women, especially war widows, to set up their own business and impart their jewellery-making knowledge to other people as well.”
Talking about her journey, she shares, “Prince of Wales Foundation sent me to Afghanistan because I had set up 250 schools in the region. We set up Turquoise Mountain Foundation, in Old City of Kabul, in January 2008. It was the first school of gemstones in Afghanistan. Our first breakthrough came when I launched contemporary Afghan jewellery with designer Pippa Small at the London Fashion Week. Since then we have been making locals use opportunities offered at the institute to specialise in gem-cutting, jewellery manufacturing and woodwork. Right now there are 36 students. Every year we ensure that graduates from our institute are able to reach the international market.”
She continues, “Initially we had thousands of applicants. So we selected those with basic literacy because we had to teach them and make them entrepreneurs. We shortlisted candidates in 2008 on the basis of their drawings, passion and commitment. Of 1,500 students, half were girls who live with their families. In many cases now these girls are generating income for their families. A girl with a disabled father supports her entire family. Another girl, who is deaf, is an income generator. As entrepreneurs they are training and providing employment to a number of artisans.”
According to her each design is unique as it is a celebration of the strength and aesthetics of Afghan women. She comments, “I have been part of the big international project to help women like Khala Zada, whose husband was killed by the Taliban, to help them realise their strength. Khala has been creating pleated necklaces out of lapis.”
Sophia goes on to say, “This exhibition in Delhi is a celebration of Khala as a designer. She has conducted workshops in her village in Bagh province where she has trained dozens of women in bead-making. Nothing stops bullets faster than jobs. We are ensuring that graduates from our institute get access to the international market. And realise opportunities to use minerals in the sensitive Pakistan-Afghanistan border and remote arid areas where people are jobless.”
Going forward she wants to blend western designs with traditional elements. She says, “Our clientele are young women who make fashion choices with the intention to make a difference in the world. Women might be staying at Los Angles or San Francisco but share the same sensibilities.”
