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Along the Danube

Gita Jayakumar, a life coach, alternative healer and fitness expert visited Bratislava in Slovakia, and met with a slice of history in the picturesque city

Gita Jayakumar, a life coach, alternative healer and fitness expert visited Bratislava in Slovakia, and met with a slice of history in the picturesque city

Visiting Bratislava was actually quite by chance — I was in Vienna, looking for the best way to chart out my trip. I found that Bratislava was just about an hour-and-a-half by train, and it promised me a shot at visiting an old worldly town, while also enjoying the views of the countryside on the way. It was easily among the best travel decisions I made — I absolutely love open spaces and the countryside. It is definitely a must-visit for history buffs and nature lovers.

I had the chance to visit Bratislava early in the morning. My train left Vienna around 8:00 am, and I was there by 9:30 am, intending to have my breakfast in Bratislava. One of the nicest things about the central station is that you get off the train to a host of kiosks and little shops that sell you great food. Being a vegetarian, I suppose my options were limited, but no less delicious. I had a footlong sandwich with three kinds of cheese including cheddar and mozzarella, tomatoes, and walnuts.

I spent my time sightseeing before settling in for lunch at the local eateries where I enjoyed a local favourite called the Bryndzove Halusky — potato dumplings with a side of sheep’s milk cheese. The Slovakians absolutely love their potatoes and do a great job of cooking it. I tried some Lokse, as well, which are baked potato pancakes. I wanted to try rezen, but I wasn’t sure if it came in an eggless option.

Anyone who visits Bratislava should see the castle. Nothing beats that marvellous sight. It is directly above the Danube on a rock-cut hill of the Little Carpathians. The palace has four gates — the Sigismund Gate (built in the 15th Century), the Vienna Gate (built in 1712), the Nicholas Gate (built in the 16th Century), and the Leopold Gate. Much of the palace has been reconstructed after all the destruction time and war brought with it. I am a huge fan of Baroque architecture, having grown up in Kolar Gold Fields, and my house had Victorian and Baroque influences, so it was a lovely return to my childhood. Aside from this, the change of guards at the Grassalkovich Palace, which is the seat of the current president, is also quite a sight. Bratislava is small, so streets and the greenery are the real destination.

I had a beautiful personal moment when I looked onto the Danube from above, at the castle. It was a very moving thing to come to understand that the place I was standing at that particular point in time was the epicentre of so many years of historical events — how insignificant we are in the grander scheme of things!

The locals are wonderful, simple people. They are quick to smile, willing to help and very encouraging when you try to speak the local language.

My advice would be to spend more time in the city — there’s so much scope in the silence for self-discovery. Bratislava is generally great most times of the year.

(As told to Kaavya Pillai)

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