Chadar trek: Walking on thin ice

There are a few ideas that consume you once they’ve been planted in your consciousness. For me, one such idea was experiencing first-hand the thrill of trekking in sub-zero temperatures in a terrain completely unfamiliar and often dangerous. When I finally decided 2016 would be my lucky year for a Leh escapade, a lot of time was spent either researching or working towards building an immune system that would not shamefully collapse when put to test. The months ahead of the Chadar trek in Ladakh are just as exciting and unnerving, if not more, for folks like us from tropical climes. While you may know roughly what to expect, nothing can prepare you for the exhilarating time that’ll be frozen (quite literally) in your psyche.

A walk to remember

Every January-February, hordes of trekkers descend in Leh in the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir for what is called the Chadar trek. With temperatures falling to -35 degrees in winter, the wild and mighty Zanskar river freezes in its path, forming a Chadar (sheet) of ice on its surface. The approximately 105-km trek (one way) is an adventure personified for non-Ladakhis, but the locals depend on the fairly treacherous route to stay connected to the rest of the world. With supplies heaped on to makeshift sleds, locals swiftly navigate the ever-changing facades of Chadar. The trek guide becomes your best friend with handy anecdotes and advice as you learn to gauge the nature of the frozen Zanskar where slipping and falling is part of the experience.

Around 55 km from Leh city is Chilling village, and at another 25 kilometres is Daar, where the actual trek begins. Dusty, narrow off-roads, loose rocks, menacing ledges are all part of road travel in the mountainous states of North India and the journey to the Chadar base camp isn’t any different. Starkly contrasting visuals of mountains with and without snow on the journey, paint a mysterious landscape. An hour’s hike down a sandy, mountainous terrain, with snow-capped peaks in the distance for company, and you reach the Chadar base camp, Tilat Shumdo. View of a lifetime Global warming and rising temperatures every year mean the Chadar doesn’t form like it used to, say 10 years ago. For major parts of the trek one can see the icy cold water gushing through the canyons, a thin layer of ice floating on its surface. Chadar reinvents itself every few days — thawing, breaking, settling and thawing again. The whims of the river, coupled with the rising and falling temperatures, make sure the experience is not the same to and fro. The gushing river during the summers has ensured unique rock formations a la the Grand Canyon in USA. Some rocks are cragged, while others display distinct shades of brown, green and white, their surfaces passionately kissed and smoothened by the river. The gorge makes for picture perfect frames from any angle in daylight.

Even through 2-3 layers of socks inside the rubber gumboots, a tingly sensation creepily makes its way from the sole to your spine as you take penguin-like short strides to get a grip on the slippery ice. Trekkers soon realise listening to your trek guide is the best favour you can do yourself.

On the way to Nerak (end point of the eight-day trek), you can see a sea of white swathing with a tinge of blue for miles. Imposing canyons, frozen waterfalls, well-rounded moss-coloured pebbles on the riverbed, dangerously hanging steep ledges are just some of the vistas trekkers get to feast upon. The beauty of water in every form — frost, transparent/opaque ice, meth-like crystals, soft snowflakes, ice spikes, permafrost — it’s all on display at Chadar. The temperature at night can become unforgiving, but bonfires and freshly prepared vegetarian food bring much-needed relief. The sky is awash with stars and the Zanskar bathed in moonlight is an unforgettable sight. The moon adds an eerily charming character to the Chadar.

The Ladakhi touch The company you keep decides how much fun you’re going to have conquering the Chadar. Trekkers are accompanied by a group of locals including a guide, porters and cooks. The team is your friend, philosopher, guide, caretaker and a grandmother that feeds you enough for a year only in a day. These hardworking Ladakhi men are efficient and jovial, despite the harsh conditions they endure and go out of their way to make sure you’re well looked after. Moral teachings of their religion (most of them are Buddhists) guide their actions and their respect for the Zanskar is reflected in their ever-smiling faces as they tread the Chadar with grace and agility. Be sure to be met with Ladakhi greeting ‘julley’ throughout the trek from strangers walking around with a zen-like peace, lugging sleds full of supplies. Mundane interactions with the kitchen staff are learning experiences of the rich Ladakhi culture, which has deep roots in Buddhists beliefs. Apart from drying your drenched socks and pouring you cup after cup of pepper tea, these porters pour their hearts out, narrating their experiences at the Chadar.

Modernity and commercialisation hasn’t spared even this remote place, and the all-weather road currently being blasted above the river hangs gloomily, threatening to take away their livelihood. Even though it will be easier to stay connected, the road brings with it a fear among porters who worry things won’t be the same. There isn’t much once can do except wait and watch till the road is completed. Who knows it might bring a new path toward a livelihood that’ll spare the Chadar from the current footfalls.

Wander and emerge After I returned from the trek, the most FAQ was: how does one answer nature’s call Patiently and carefully, I explained it was more or less the same at most treks where luxury is the last thing on your mind — in the open. It seemed stupid to be stuck describing relieving habits when the Chadar is so much more for a wandering soul, a breath of ultra fresh air.

Frozen toes and fingers apart, the Chadar trek is nothing but a manifestation of what your mind and body is capable of when you train both. As for routine bodily functions, you just get used to mustering courage to go out and face the cold. Chadar is something anyone even with a slight adventurous bent of mind should experience at least once if not more.

Before the trek It is advised to dress warm during the flight itself because the cold winds in Leh can hit you and how. Acute Mountain Sickness is not a mythical ailment, and we’ve seen it spoil trips for those who don’t care enough or do not acclimatise.

At the trek Listen to your guide. If you have to be an imbecile, be prepared to pay the price.

You will learn soon enough that cold is just a state of mind and once you’re convinced of that, Chadar is actually enjoyable